One of the lowcountry’s most photographed sites gained several feet of protection. In an effort to preserve and protect the Old Sheldon Church, a locked fence has been placed around the ruins. Visitors can still visit the site but cannot pass through the iconic columns and brick arches.
The church is owned by the Parish Church of St. Helena. They have been researching ways to preserve the ruins from rapid decay. The historic structure has fallen victim to vandalism by way of desecrating tombstones, graffiti, brick removal and destruction.
The Parish Church of St. Helena has plans to bring in docents on site to lead tours through the beautiful ruins. Restoration work will shortly begin first. Walking paths will be placed within the interior portion of the ruins. Walking through the brick archways will only be possible with professional supervision to ensure damage is not done to the structure.
This early example of Greek Revival stands as a testament to master craftsmanship and has had a very interesting life. The South Carolina Picture Project wrote a great article about its storied past. A tablet located on the grounds reads: “Church of Prince William’s Parish, known as Sheldon, built between 1745-1755. Burned by the British Army 1779. Rebuilt 1826. Burned by the Federal Army 1865. Another sign states: “Old Sheldon is not a recreational area or playground.”
As visitors to this site we must respect this sacred and historically significant lowcountry gem. We must also understand, and not be offended by the fence. Protecting this structure for future generations is critical. The efforts of St. Helena should be applauded and appreciated.
History abounds from start to finish. Take a day trip to visit the historic sites on this scenic island road.
St. Helena is home to many beautiful roads. A turn onto Lands End Road puts you right in the heart of the Penn Center. This historically significant landmark is the site of the former Penn School, one of the first educational sites for formally enslaved individuals. Their website says it best, “Opened in 1862 the Penn School tutored freedmen out of slavery and into freedom. After the school closed in 1948, Penn became the first African American site in the state whose primary purpose was to safeguard the heritage of the Gullah Geechie community.
Later, in the 1960’s, Penn Center took up the mantle of social justice by ushering in the Civil Rights Movement and serving as the only location in South Carolina where interracial groups, such as Dr. Martin L. King, Jr., and the Southern Christian Leadership Conference and the Peace Corps could have safe sanctuary in an era of mandated segregation.
Penn Center continues to thrive as a national monument promoting historic preservation, as well as a catalyst for economic sustainability throughout the Sea Islands. Its far-reaching impact on local, national and international communities has been the greatest legacy of the Penn Center’s history.”
The oldest building on the site is the Brick Church. Built in 1855, Brick Church was an early location of the first school.
When visiting the Penn Center your first stop should be the Courtney P. Siceloff Welcome Center and Gift Shop in the York W. Bailey Museum. The museum is open Tuesday-Saturday, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.
As you travel further down Lands End Road you will find the St. Helena Parish Chapel of Ease Ruins. This tabby house of worship was built in the mid-1700s for the plantation families that lived on the sea island. Because the island was occupied by Union troops during the Civil War, the plantation families abandoned their homes and the church was used by the abandoned slaves of the island. It was used by Northerners who came south to educate and train freemen. It was also used as a sanctuary by Methodist freemen as early as 1868. A forest fire destroyed the structure in 1886 and it was left in disrepair.
The church ruins are surrounded by ancient oaks, dripping in Spanish moss. It also has a cemetery, containing a tomb containing Fripp family members. This is a great spot to take pictures and reflect on the splendor of this historic site. The SC Picture Project has a great article about the chapel of ease ruins with many beautiful pictures.
Standing sentry at the end of Lands End Road is the Fort Fremont Historical Park. Built in 1898, this fort was one of six fortifications designed to protect the coast during the Spanish American War. Long abandoned, the site now sits in beautiful ruins. Surrounded by live oaks, the fort looks out over Port Royal Sound with 900 feet of beach access.
Visible now are the recessed spots where disappearing cannons were positioned. Fort Fremont was officially deactivated in 1912 when the Port Royal Naval Station moved from Parris Island to Charleston. The property went into private hands for several years. While the hospital was transformed into a hunting and fishing lodge, the fort fell into disrepair. They were both listed on the National Register of Historic Places. In 2004 the fort and 15 acres were purchased transform the ruins into a public park.
Visitors can roam through the preserve and view the fort from all angles. According to the Fort Fremont Historical Preserve, “Ft. Fremont serves as a historical remnant of military defense technology at the dawn of the 20th century as the U.S. became a major world power.”
Fort Fremont is open for touring during daylight hours. You can also access and walk along the beach through the fort property. The full history of Fort Fremont can be found on their website.
Step back in time to visit the historic wonders of this small town.
Many travelers enjoy driving Highway 17, between Charleston and Savannah. The naturally beautiful landscape of Yemassee is located between the two cities. A simple turn off Hwy 17 onto Old Sheldon Church Road is like stepping back in time. Travel up the road for about two miles and see the church ruins on the right. Parking is located across the street. This church was burned during the Revolutionary War, rebuilt and then destroyed again during the Civil War. There is a debate as to whether the church was burned or disassembled during the Civil War.
The following is from an article in the April 1969 Sandlapper Magazine by Charles E. Thomas, “The Picturesque Ruins of Old Sheldon Church”. “The official South Carolina report on the ‘Destruction of Churches and Church Property,’ after the War Between the States, described Sheldon’s second burning: All that was combustible was consumed…, its massive walls survive the last as they did the former conflagration, Bishop Thomas wrote, Exactly as it happened a hundred years before in 1779, when General Prevost, marching from Savannah into South Carolina burned the Church, so now in February 1865, General Sherman marching from Georgia into South Carolina, burned it a second time.”
However, another account found more recently states that the church was not burnt at all.
In a letter dated February 3, 1866, Beaufort’s Milton Leverett wrote, “Sheldon Church not burnt. Just torn up in the inside but can be repaired.” The inside of the church was apparently gutted to reuse materials in rebuilding the area homes that were burnt by Sherman’s army. Today the Old Sheldon Church Ruins are protected by fencing to ensure their protection. Visitors can meander all around the structure while maintaining a safe distance from the ancient walls.
After visiting the ruins, continue up Old Sheldon Church Road and head into Yemassee. Cross the railroad tracks and keep left. Cross Hwy 17A and turn left onto Hwy 68. Head out of town and to the other side of I-95. Take a left at Davidson Tower Road and another left at the end onto Pocotaligo Road. Travel about two miles to find two more hidden gems.
Sheldon Chapel Episcopal, formerly of Prince William Parish sits proudly on the left at 25481 Pocotaligo Road. Dated to 1745, the church was dismantled and used to build bridges by Gen. Sherman during the Civil War then rebuilt in 1898.
If you turn left directly after the church, you will come upon another historic structure. Fans of the movie Forest Gump will recognize this church. Forrest went to church here to pray that he and Lieutenant Dan would find shrimp. Built in 1833 this chapel was used for seasonal worship. It is the only pre-Civil War structure in this area. During the war the chapel was used as a hospital and campsite by Union troops.
Retrace your path and come back to Old Sheldon Road. Turn right onto Cotton Hall. This will lead you back to highway 17 and past the gates and oak avenues of two beautiful plantations. While the homes aren’t visible to passersby, the entrances are photo worthy.
A drive into Yemassee is a fun way to add a historical detour into your drive down Highway 17. We hope you enjoy the scenery. For more interesting pit stops in the South Carolina Lowcountry visit https://southcarolinalowcountry.com/category/blog/.
A drive to Old Town Bluffton is always a good idea. The historic architecture and river views are spectacular. There is also a hidden gem worked into the landscape. Today’s outing started at the Heyward House, located at 70 Boundary St. This property has been in Bluffton since 1841. The house serves as Bluffton’s official Welcome Center and museum. The house is decorated in period furnishings and is complete with artifacts that tell the story of Bluffton, and the people that once lived there. There are also outbuildings located behind the house that represent a cook house and slave quarters.
Another historic treasure is located just a few streets away at 110 Calhoun Street. The Church of the Cross has stood on the bluff of the May River since 1854. This Gothic structure celebrated its 150th anniversary in 2004.
The oldest church in Old Town Bluffton dates to 1853. The Bluffton Methodist Church building was purchased by nine former slaves in 1874. Campbell Chapel AME Church was formed by these visionary founding fathers. While the structure has been altered and renovated over the years, the original structure still stands strong and proud.
The Bluffton Oyster Company has been a part of Old Town Bluffton since 1899. It sits on is reclaimed land at the end of Warf Street. This land built up by more than a hundred years’ worth of discarded shells. Situated directly adjacent is the Oyster Factory Park. The park has a nature trail which is unique for the Old Town area. There is also a firepit area, a playground and plenty of picnic spots. Restrooms are conveniently located here also.
The Garvin-Garvey Freeman’s Cottage is located inside the park. This historically significant house has recently undergone extensive renovations. It is believed that former slave Cyrus Garvin built the house on the property of his former owner.
Views of the May River are spectacular from the front porch. Tours are available through the Heyward House.
Another fun stop in Old Town is the Pritchard Pocket Garden. Located where the street meets the river, this little hidden gem was worth the trouble of finding it. Parking is along the road. Entrance is through a small gate and down a short path. Benches are set up on the bluff that overlooks the May River. It is a calm and relaxing spot to breathe in the SC Lowcountry at its finest, and a great way to end the day exploring Old Town Bluffton.
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The Lowcountry & Resort Islands Region of South Carolina includes the four, southern-most counties in the state, Beaufort, Jasper, Hampton, and Colleton, which are bordered on the east by the Atlantic Ocean and on the west by the Savannah River and the state of Georgia.
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