The live oak in the front yard of Frampton Plantation is estimated to be around 300 years old. Photo by Lowcountry Tourism Commission.
When you think of the south, you conjure images of the mighty live oak trees dripping in Spanish moss. These magnificent trees stand sentry around homes and lead the way down country lanes. The specimens that surround Frampton Plantation House have been around for 300 years. In fact, it was noted that after the original house was burned during the Civil War, the home was rebuilt in a different spot between four live oaks. All four trees are still alive and thriving today. In fact, these very trees have been reaching for the sun since c.1743.
Picnic under the southern live oaks in the backyard of Frampton Plantation Visitors Center. We’re conveniently located off I-95, at Exit 33 in Yemassee. Photo by Carmen Pinckney.
Live Oak trees are always up for company. Along the southern coast, live oaks live life beside Spanish moss and resurrection fern. Neither plant causes harm, they both feed from humidity and air. Resurrection fern grows along the tops of branches, turning green during rain and humidity, then brown when the air is dry. Spanish moss drapes gracefully from branches, feeding from water and nutrients found in the air.
Live oak branches tend to grow horizontally, dipping down then reaching back up toward the sun. This Tomotley Plantation tree is no exception. Photo by CJ Brown.
The branches of southern live oaks tend to grow horizontally, spreading across the landscape. Being a product of the south, I can attest to the fact that they make great climbing trees. If you were lucky enough to grow up with a live oak in your yard, there were always hordes of kids who wanted to climb, swing or picnic in the shade of these magnificent trees.
Spanish moss and live oaks make a perfect backdrop for a Lowcountry wedding. Cotton Hall Plantation is available for just such an occasion. Photo by Cotton Hall.
Live oaks can grow to a height of 80 feet high. Given the room to grow, they can spread 100 feet wide. They grow at a rate of 13 – 24 inches per year. They grow in sun and shade and will thrive in just about any kind of soil. They can be found along the beach, deep in the forest, and everywhere in between. Mature live oaks can have a diameter of 6 feet. Some of the oldest live oaks are estimated to be several hundred to more than a thousand years old.
This 300 year old live oak stands watch in front of the Frampton Plantation house. Photo by Lowcountry Tourism Commission.
Southern live oak trees are nearly evergreen. They replace their leaves sporadically, so we never notice their shedding process. They produce sweet acorns that are a favorite food source of both birds and mammals. Wild turkey and deer are especially fond of this delicacy.
While live oaks can be found from Virginia to Florida and as far west as Texas and Oklahoma, the Southern live oak grows best in salty soils along the coast. Like most southerners, this tree is particularly fond of warm temperatures and salty breezes.
This lovely home on Hampton Street in Walterboro has a yard complete with a live oak. Photo by Lowcountry Tourism Commission.
The wood from southern live oaks is very dense and strong. It was once a preferred wood for shipbuilding. The naval vessel USS Constitution was made from the wood of live oaks. Repeated cannon fire could not destroy the ship during the War of 1812. The British cannons literally bounced off the live oak hull of the ship. The ship was nicknamed “Old Ironsides” after it survived the attack. Many older homes are floored with wood from these magnificent trees. Oak flooring is durable and takes on a golden hue with age and wear. Structural beams and posts were also made from the strong wood of live oaks.
Live oak alleys can be seen throughout the Lowcountry. Some of the most popular can be found on Edisto Island and Lady’s Island, Beaufort. Many older plantation properties are distinguished by their alley of live oaks. Planted on both sides of lanes, the branches reach across and form a canopy across the roadways. Old Sheldon Road is a wonderful example of a live oak canopy. Nestled between Yemassee and Beaufort, this road leads to the Old Sheldon Church Ruins.
A drive through Yemassee will lead travelers past many historic properties with oak lined driveways. Photos by Carmen Pinckney.
Old Sheldon road connects with Cotton Hall Road. This canopied road is home to several plantation entrances with live oak alleys. Both Tomotley and Cotton Hall Plantation entrances are visible. Yemassee’s McPhersonville Road is another great place to view a canopy.
If taking a trip to Edisto Island, be sure to stop at the ACE Basin National Wildlife Refuge to view Grove Plantation House and its beautiful live oaks. Botany Bay Wildlife Management Area is located closer to Edisto Beach, and is home to the most photographed alley of oaks in the area. Photos by Carmen Pinckney.
Iconic oak alleys can be found on the route to Edisto Beach. ACE Basin and Botany Bay Plantation Wildlife Management Areas both have canopied entrances. They can be accessed via Highway 174.
Most of Bluffton’s Hwy 46 is covered in a live oak canopy. Pinckney Colony is lined with aged oaks as well.
Oak alleys can be found across the South Carolina Lowcountry. Pictured left is Coffin Point on St Helena’s Island. Pictured right is Cotton Hall Plantation in Yemassee. Cotton Hall is a popular wedding venue. Photos by Lowcountry Tourism Commission and Cotton Hall.
The Beaufort Sea Islands are also great places to spend the day driving under the oaks. Coffin Point, Meridian and Lands End Road are good examples.
Savannah National Wildlife Refuge and Hwy 17 just south of Ridgeland are good spots in Jasper County to view the trees. Colleton County’s Donnelley Wildlife Management Area is another great place to drive through and see live oaks. Hampton County’s Webb Wildlife Management Area also has many examples of southern live oaks.
Resurrection fern is best seen after a good rain. This live oak can be found in the backyard of Frampton Plantation Visitors Center in Yemassee. Photo by Carmen Pinckney.
Resurrection fern and Spanish moss intermingle along the branches of this southern live oak tree that can be found in the front yard of Frampton Plantation Visitors Center. Photo by Carmen Pinckney.
Many roadways across the Lowcountry are covered in a canopy of live oak branches that reach together to form a tunnel of branches and Spanish moss. Photos by Carmen Pinckney.
The community is invited to the opening celebration of the traveling exhibit “A War on Two Fronts: African Americans Fight for Victory at Home and Abroad” on February 5, 2022, from 11 am to 1 pm at the Morris Center for Lowcountry Heritage.
Dr. Maggi Morehouse from Coastal Carolina University will be on hand to discuss the origins of the project which explores the stories, struggles and accomplishments of African soldiers during World War II. Attendees can view footage of interviews from Orease Brown and Henry Lawton, two of the black WWII veterans from Jasper County. The event will also include guided tours of the exhibition, light refreshments and music from the 1940s era.
More than one million African Americans served during WWII, but their contributions to the war effort are rarely discussed. “A War on Two Fronts” is adapted from an original exhibition and book developed by the Athenaeum Press at the Horry County Museum. The exhibition and book explore how African Americans in the 92nd and 93rd Army infantry divisions fought for racial equality during wartime, and then went on to be active participants in the Civil Rights Movement. It traces the little-known stories of soldiers on the front lines, and how segregation affected their training, service and recognition.
The exhibition draws from the work of Dr. Maggi Morehouse, Burroughs Distinguished Professor of Southern History and Culture at Coastal Carolina University and a daughter of a commanding officer in the 92nd infantry division. Morehouse interviewed more than 40 soldiers and their families on their experiences. Her archive will be housed at the Library of Congress. The exhibit includes historical photographs, interviews with soldiers, film, audio and interactives, to tell the compelling story of the life of a black soldier during WWII.
“We are very pleased to be able to bring ‘A War on Two Fronts’ to our area,” said Tamara Herring, Morris Center Executive Director. “It allows us the opportunity to showcase the contributions and sacrifices of our local veterans, and we hope that it will inspire many to study and talk about this important time of our nation’s history.”
On view at the Morris Center from February 5, 2022, through August 13, 2022, “A War on Two Fronts” was created by the Athenaeum Press, a student publishing lab at Coastal Carolina University that focuses on telling regional stories in innovative ways. To learn more about “A War on Two Fronts” and other Athenaeum Press projects, visit www.ccu.pressor www.warontwofronts.com.
The Morris Center is open to the public Tuesday – Saturday from 10:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m. For more information, please visit www.morrisheritagecenter.org.
About Morris Center for Lowcountry Heritage
Located in the heart of downtown Ridgeland on US 17, Morris Center for Lowcountry Heritage is a learning and exhibition center dedicated to preserving and cultivating the history, culture and spirit of Ridgeland and its surrounding counties. Housed in a collection of vintage buildings, with the architecturally distinctive Sinclair Service Station as its focal point, the center features ever-changing exhibitions, interactive and dynamic learning opportunities, cultural offerings, storytelling and other forms of art.
Fort Fremont History Center image from fortfremont.org.
Fort Fremont is a favorite destination for history buffs visiting Beaufort County. The Spanish American War Fort is now home to an interpretive center which explains the history of the fort.
Image by Carmen Pinckney.
Fort Fremont can be found at 1124 Lands End Road, just off Highway 21 on Saint Helena Island. It was one of the last forts constructed on Port Royal Sound. It was very technologically advanced for its time and included state-of-the-art weapon systems, electricity, and telephones. It was one of six forts that were constructed to protect the southeastern coastline. Only two of those survive today.
Image by Carmen Pinckney.
Built in 1898 during the Spanish-American War, the fort protected the Port Royal Sound and the Port Royal Naval Station at Parris Island. It served as a line of defense until its deactivation in 1910. Beaufort County purchased the preserve and fort in 2004 and 2010. The 18-acre property borders the Port Royal Sound. The fort was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 2010.
The history center houses a diorama showing how the fort looked in the early 1900s. Screenshot from Coastline 80 Fort Fremont – YouTube.
The history center contains a diorama that shows visitors how the original fort once looked in the early 1900s. During its heyday, the fort included many outbuildings, including administration, guard house, barracks, hospital, stable, mess hall, bakery, commissary, post exchange, and water tower, supporting a staff of 110.
There are many options for visiting the fort. Interpretive panels have been placed near the batteries to educate visitors. Self-guided walking tours can also be completed through a smart phone app. Tour the history center and view the diorama. Docent-led tours of the property will also be available.
The new history center opened November 9, 2021. Screenshot from Coastline 80 Fort Fremont – YouTube.
There is no cost to visit the fort. Pathways are ADA approved and a picnic pavilion provides shelter. The historic concrete batteries are on display. The preserve also has restrooms and a water fountain.
Fort Fremont will be open to the public seven days a week, during daylight hours. The history center will be open Friday 10 am to 2 pm, Saturday 10 am to 4 pm, and Sunday 1 pm to 4 pm. For more information on historic Fort Fremont, visit fortfremont.org. For additional information on attractions near Fort Fremont visit southcarolinalowcountry.com.
Cruise on National Geographic’s Sea Lion. Photo found on nationalgeographic.com.
Along the coastline of the SC Lowcountry are a string of wild and beautiful barrier islands. This wilderness landscape is teaming with unspoiled wetlands, beaches, dunes, and maritime forests. Book passage with the National Geographic Sea Lion to explore the history, parks, and refuges along the Lowcountry coastline.
Canopies of live oaks, dripping with Spanish moss cover the barrier islands of the Lowcountry. Photo by Carmen Pinckney.
The trip begins in Charleston and sails down the coast to Beaufort and Port Royal. Visit downtown Beaufort, Old Sheldon Church Ruins, the Port Royal Museum and St. Helena’s Penn Center; the site of the first school for freed slaves. The day is capped off with a visit to Lady’s Island Oysters for a tasting of this local delicacy.
St. Phillips Island is a nature lover’s paradise. Photo by Atlanta Journal Constitution.
The next day will be spent between visits to St. Phillips Island and Edisto Island. St, Phillips Island is an undeveloped treasure that is now part of Hunting Island State Park. It was previously owned and protected by Ted Turner. Hike trails that travel from sand dunes to salt marshes and maritime forests. The island habitat protects migrating warblers, roseate spoonbills, alligators, loggerhead sea turtles, deer, fox squirrels and much more.
The entrance to Edisto Island’s Botany Bay is at the end of this live oak canopy. Photo by Carmen Pinckney.
Travel ashore at Edisto Island to see Botany Bay Plantation Wildlife Management Area. This spot was once the home of two plantations. Its iconic entrance is covered with a majestic canopy of live oaks. The 4,600-acre site is comprised of unspoiled beach, coastal forests, and historic plantation ruins. It is home to many animals and birds.
It’s always a good day for a hike in the South Carolina Lowcountry. Photo by Carmen Pinckney.
The trip winds back up the coast to Cape Romain National Wildlife Refuge. Discover area wildlife and history. Watch for dolphins as you cruise the shore in a Zodiac or hike the trails of the refuge. Don’t forget to take pictures as you cruise past the Cape Romain Lighthouse.
The waterways surrounding the SC Lowcountry barrier islands are the perfect habitat for wildlife. Photo found on nationalgeographic.com.
The last day will be spent in the waterways of the Francis Marion National Forest. This black water region is home to old growth bald cypress trees, turtles, birds, sunning reptiles and much more.
Botany Bay Plantation Wildlife Management Area’s beach is unspoiled and covered in seashells. Photo by Carmen Pinckney.
Book passage as for this cruise that begins in April 2022. Visit NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM for dates and additional information! For more information about the South Carolina Lowcountry visit SOUTHCAROLINALOWCOUNTRY.COM.
The history of indigo production in South Carolina goes all the way back to the birth of our nation and a very special lady named Eliza Lucas Pinckney. The wife of a prominent statesman, Pinckney oversaw the first successful cultivation of South Carolina indigo in 1744. By 1748, indigo was second only to rice as the colony’s commodity cash crop.
Daufuskie Island residents Leanne Coulter and Rhonda Davis run Daufuskie Blues, an indigo dying company that honors this South Carolina tradition. They create eye-catching designs and patterns on scarves, cloth, and other fabrics. The ladies of Daufuskie Blues like to take their show on the road and teach indigo dying workshops around the Lowcountry.
Indigo images found on Daufuskie Blues Facebook.
Prior to the late 1880s, the only way to obtain blue dye was with the indigo plant. Leanne and Rhonda take great pride in sharing the history and methodology behind the indigo dying process. Ridgeland’s Morris Center is one of the sites for these classes. The Blues ladies first discussed the history of indigo growing wild on Daufuskie. They also grow it for production. The plant’s leaves are broken down in a reduction vat to make it water soluble. Once the dye is prepared, folded, stitched, twisted or cinched fabric is placed inside the vat. The dye first turns the fabric green. Exposure to the air creates a rich blue hue.
The process always yields a surprise!
After the final soak and rinse the fun really started. Fabric was released from its bindings and all the beautiful patterns were revealed. Each piece was a unique work of art.
Images show the many patterns created during the Indigo dyeing class at Ridgeland’s Morris Center.
Indigo dying classes can be found at Hilton Head’s Coastal Discovery Museum, Walterboro’s Colleton Museum and Ridgeland’s Morris Center. You can also head over to Daufuskie Island and visit with Leanne and Rhonda at their store. Workshops can also be scheduled by appointment on Daufuskie Island.
Images of Daufuskie Blues found on Facebook.
Daufuskie Blues is currently located in the historic Mary Field School, built in 1933, where Pat Conroy once taught. The island and his experiences teaching there inspired him to write his first book The Water is Wide, which was made into the motion picture Conrak. Daufuskie Island is only accessible by boat or ferry. It is one mile south of Hilton Head. Daufuskie Blues is open Tuesdays – Saturdays, from 11 am – 4 pm.
Daufuskie Blues 203 Schoolhouse Road (843) 707-2664, (843)368-3717 leanne.daufuskieblues@gmail.com
South Carolina is widely believed to have one of the most beautiful state flags in the country. The original design was created in 1775 by Colonel William Moultrie, with a crescent shape in the top left corner. This shape and its meaning are topics of great debate amongst the sandlappers of our fair state. Many think it is a moon, others believe it is a gorget. Which is it? What does it signify? Just why is it there? These are the questions that we will ponder in our pursuit of the truth.
Capt. Thomas Hewitt 1781 National Army Museum Study Collection.1772 George Washington by Charles Willson Peale.
One side of the coin
South Carolinians are very egocentric when it comes to their flag. Both schools of thought are also very passionate about their beliefs. State “folklore” suggests the shape is a gorget. Historically they were hung around the necks of soldiers to protect the delicate area from bayonet strikes. They first made an appearance during medieval times. During the 18th century, the gorget could be seen as an accessory on the military uniforms of Revolutionary officers. George Washington first wore a gorget during the French and Indian War to show his rank in the Virginia Regiment. According to Mountvernon.org, George Washington “wears a stylish silver gorget engraved with the royal arms, a vestige of the armor worn by medieval knights, and across his chest he wears a military sash. Both were traditional symbols of rank worn by officers.”
According to the Charleston Museum, “These things have been around in one form or another since the Middle Ages and survive even today within certain military units. Traditionally a component of a suit of armor, the gorget served as a protective plate over the seam between the combatant’s helmet and breastplate. As full body armor became less useful over time, gorgets shrank in size and eventually became a communicative symbol of rank. During the American Revolution, both British and Patriot forces employed gorgets in their uniforms. This particular piece belonged to Charles Cotesworth Pinckney, signer of the United States Constitution and 1803 presidential candidate. The gorget itself was made by master Charleston Silversmith John Vanall circa 1750. (The engraving was very likely done sometime after the war as a commemorative gesture.)”
Cap image from Columbia Star.2nd SC Regiment of Infantry portrait by Lt. Charles M. Lefferts, 1776.
Folklore further says the gorget shape was used on the military caps of the 1st and 2nd South Carolina Regiments during the Revolutionary War. In 1775, Colonel William Moultrie was put in charge of these troops. He was assigned the task of developing a flag for the state while stationed at Fort Sullivan. The flag would be used to signal the city when friendly ships were entering the Charleston harbor. According to some, he used a gorget in the corner of an indigo blue field for this flag. The indigo matched the color of his troop’s uniforms, and the gorget was taken from the cap. Some profess that the word liberty was also written on the flag. The palm tree would later be added to the flag and placed in the center. We’ll talk about that later.
Flag of Fort Moultrie.
The other side of the coin
As previously stated, William Moultrie was the brains behind the design of the flag. In his own words, here’s what he has to say on the matter: “A little time after we were in possession of Fort Johnson [that is, late September or October 1775], it was thought necessary to have a flag for the purpose of signals: (as there was no national or state flag at that time) I was desired by the Council of Safety to have one made, upon which, as the state troops were clothed in blue, and the fort was garrisoned by the first and second regiments, who wore a silver crescent on the front of their caps; I had a large blue flag made with a crescent in the dexter corner, to be in uniform with the troops: This was the first American flag which was displayed in South Carolina.” William Moultrie, Memoirs of the American Revolution, So Far As It Related to the States of North and South-Carolina, and Georgia, volume 1 (New York: David Longworth, 1802)
In this excerpt Moultrie does not offer any explanation about the use of a crescent. The crescent is an ancient symbol that was used throughout history. According to the Hall of Names “the crescent stands for one who has been enlightened and honored by the gracious aspect of his sovereign. It is also borne as a symbol of the hope of greater glory in heraldry. Knights returning from the crusades introduced the crescent, the badge of Islam, into the language of heraldry. The heraldic crescent has a very deep base and curving horns that quickly sharpen to point close together. Crescents also represent the moon that lights the night sky for travelers, though it does not resemble the shape of a crescent moon very closely. In English arms it was also a mark of cadency signifying a second son. The reversed crescent is a crescent with the horns turned down. The term increscent indicated a crescent with the horns facing the observer’s left, and decrescent is a crescent facing the observer’s right.”
Battle of Sullivan’s Island, John White, 1826. Sgt. William Jasper replacing the colors during the British attack on Sullivan’s Island at the entrance to Charleston Harbor, 28 June 1776 colored engraving, 19th century
Did the flag at its conception have a true crescent? If so, the horns would have faced upward. There is some debate about this. This 1826 painting by John Blake White that hangs in the US Senate shows the crescent facing upward. Another painting by Johannes Adam Simon Oertel in 1858 shows the diagonal tilt that we currently use. Both images depict the brave soldier Sergeant William Jasper as he returns the fallen flag to an upright position during the Battle of Sullivan’s Island June 28, 1776. His brave actions rallied the troops to persevere against the British artillery.
Battle of Sullivan’s Island 1844 Granger wood engraving.
This flag became known as the Moultrie flag. The flag was in use at Fort Sullivan (now Fort Moultrie) on June 28, 1776, during the famous Battle of Charleston Harbor. A shell from a British warship damaged the flagstaff. William Jasper recovered the fallen flag and held it in place until a new staff could be installed. This rallied the troops, and they went on the defeat the British. After the war, General Nathaniel Greene presented the flag to the City of Charleston. Although it was intended as a temporary flag, the Moultrie flag was adopted by the colony. It was the first flag to fly over the South. When South Carolina entered the union the Moultrie flag became the official state flag.
The flag remained unchanged until 1861, when the Sabal Palmetto tree was added in honor of Fort Sullivan. The fort was hastily made out of palm trees, that were readily available along the coastline. It was also decreed that the gorget’s tips would forever point straight up as the soldiers had worn it.
Big Red was a flag that was adapted to fly over the Citadel Military College in Charleston.Post & Courier image of Big Red, that flew over Morris Island as the Citadel Cadets fired on Ft. Sumter.
At the beginning of the American Civil War a similar flag was flown at Morris Island by Cadets from the Citadel as they fired upon United States supply ship the Star of the West in 1861. The ship was taking supplies to Fort Sumter. This flag features a reversed crescent, possibly turning away from the Union during the time period of the Civil War.
The flag didn’t change again until 1910, when Alexander Samuel Salley Jr, secretary of the Historical Commission began changing the design. He added more volume to the palm tree and from this point forward, the crescent has been tilted in a northwesterly direction.
Current state laws do not provide specifications of the shape, size, design or placement of the flag symbols, or the exact color of the background. As a result, there are many versions of the state flag. The state’s main universities and their supporters also display the flag in their school colors. A committee of the South Carolina Senate is in the process of picking an official color and design.
Some folks are “Team Gorget”, and others are “Team Crescent”. While minds may or may not be changed from their line of thinking, there are other important aspects to remember. The flag was first designed by a Revolutionary hero. He was held to such high esteem that they named the fort on Sullivan’s Island after him. Colonel William Moultrie’s bravery and leadership will go down in history for all times, as our flag and history books will tell his story forever. The blue will always represent the indigo color of the soldier’s uniforms. The palm will always stand for the strength and fortitude of a quickly built fort, made of readily available sabal palmetto trees, and the waxing moon in the corner will always be an ancient symbol that represents the hope of increasing prosperity and future glory. It further signifies the rising of families or states. And according to Astrotwins and Refinery29.com, the waxing shape in the corner,” …is the cosmos’ not-so-subtle signal to get moving.” That makes sense. Our forefathers did, in fact, “get moving” on Sullivan’s Island that hectic day of June 28, 1776, when they defended their fort against the British for ten grueling hours and held off their attack.
Nestled along the borders of Beaufort and Colleton County, just a stone’s throw south of Charleston and north of Beaufort is the Combahee River. This magnificent river is the spot where Revolutionary War hero Colonel John Laurens died, and Civil War hero Harriet Tubman led over 750 slaves to freedom. Paddling a kayak through this historic estuary is an experience to be savored. The trip is ripe with anticipation of the natural wonders that will be revealed around each bend. The sights, sounds and scents of this Lowcountry paradise never disappoint its visitors.
This image shows evidence of former rice fields along the Combahee River. These fields, dikes and trunk systems are still maintained by landowners to attract wildlife to the area.
This nature enthusiast’s paradise is a part of the ACE Basin, one of the largest undeveloped estuaries along the Atlantic Coast. The best way to see this blackwater river is in a kayak. Whether you like to explore the river on your own or as a part of a tour, the Combahee has options for you. If you are the adventurous type, know how to read the tides, and have your own kayaks, Cuckhold’s Creek is a great option. If you would rather go with a guide that does all the heavy lifting, Sugar Hill Creek is the place for you. Both creeks provide stunning views of wildlife and evidence of historic rice cultivation.
Beaufort Kayak Tour guides provide an excellent tour of the estuary. Images by Carmen Pinckney.
Beaufort Kayak Tours leads a 2.5-hour excursion from Sugar Hill Landing. This spot is surrounded by former rice plantations just off River Road, via Highway 17. Guides provide a narrated natural and cultural history tour along the scenic waterway which passes rice trunks, and slave-dug canals that were used to flood rice fields. The guides provide everything you need to have a safe and enjoyable journey. Kayaks, paddles, and life jackets are waiting when visitors arrive.
Modern rice trunk systems are still maintained the same way they were in the 1700s. Images by Carmen Pinckney.
The tour proceeds down the creek and into the Combahee River. Historic rice fields are pointed out. Rice fields, dikes and trunk systems that were first built in the early 1700s are still maintained and in use as wildlife management and conservation areas. The formerly cultivated fields are prime habitats to attract all forms of birds and other wildlife species.
Images by Matt on Flickr. His images and description of paddling Cuckhold’s Creek are spectacular.
If you are of a more adventurous type and like to kayak without a guide, Cuckhold’s Creek is the perfect spot for you! This peaceful creek is travelled by many who launch from Cuckhold’s Landing at the intersection of White Hall and Combahee Roads. If you head upstream, you will travel under a bridge used in the filming of Forrest Gump. This creek also shows signs of former rice plantation days. The creek habitat is home to many flowering plants and wildlife.
Views of the Combahee River by Carmen Pinckney. Paddling image by Matt on Flickr.
The very bravest of Lowcountry kayakers enjoy launching from Cuckhold’s Landing and travel into the Combahee, through the rice canals and end the trip at the Steel Bridge Landing. This is a very long trip and not for the faint at heart, especially if the tide changes. Have someone pick you and your gear up from the Steel Bridge.
Plan your kayaking trip during the spring or early summer to see flowering plants along the banks. Images by Carmen Pinckney.
Springtime trips down the Combahee will reward you with floral beauties, including pontederia and rare spider lilies. Butterflies are also drawn to the beautiful blooms along the banks. Water lilies fill the canals and tributaries that branch from the river. Osprey, anhingas and double-breasted cormorants can be spotted in the trees. Egrets and herons can be found wading along the riverbanks. It’s always a good idea to bring along a camera to capture wildlife images. Keep it stowed away in a ziplock bag until you need it. Also, plenty of water and bug spray are also good to pack for the journey.
Water lilies fill the canals and tributaries along the river. Osprey nests can be found high in trees along the banks. An anhinga sits above the river, searching for its next meal. Photos by Carmen Pinckney.
As you travel down the Combahee River and its tributaries, it’s important to reflect on the history of the area. It’s also noteworthy to look for any straight waterways that can be found throughout the estuary. These canals were hand dug by slave labor to supply water to the ancient rice fields. The rice trunks control the flow of this water. Harriet Tubman was stationed in Beaufort with the Union Army for a time during the Civil War. Under the direction of Colonel James Montgomery, she led a scouting party of eight soldiers up the Combahee River to gain intelligence for the union. They burned plantations and liberated over 750 slaves along the river.
Pick your path to Kayak the Combahee River.
Directions for Kayaking Cuckhold’s Creek
The best time launch is on the early falling tide. The landing is accessible via Highway 17. In the Green Pond area, turn onto White Hall Road. Take the first left off White Hall. Launch your canoes then have someone pick you up at the Steel Bridge Landing (Harriet Tubman Bridge). Spring kayakers can get up close and personal with flowering plants, including white spider lilies. The creek travels through historic rice fields of the former Combahee Plantation.
Several bends into the trip, the creek seems to split into different directions. Keep to the right. Just after you pass the White Hall landing, (1.5 miles into trip) the creek splits and forms Folly Creek. Stay to the right to continue on Cuckold’s Creek. The creek will spill into the Combahee River. Stay to the left to continue downstream. The river winds through the marsh. The Steel Bridge Landing will be on the right, just before the Harriet Tubman Bridge.
Both landings can be accessed from Highway 17. Sugar Hill Landing is just off River Road. Cuckhold’s Landing can be found at the intersection of White Hall and Combahee Roads.
The Combahee River is Colleton County’s freshwater river of paradise
The Combahee River is a Lowcountry blackwater jewel. It is a 40-mile river that is influenced by the tides. The Combahee joins with the Ashepoo and Edisto Rivers to form the ACE Basin. The river gets its name from the Native American tribe that first inhabited the area. It’s the place where Henry Laurens died during the last fight of the Revolutionary War, and the spot where Harriet Tubman rescued over 750 slaves during the Civil War’s Raid at Combahee Ferry.
The Combahee River is a pristine marshy waterway that dumps into the Atlantic Ocean. The river begins life as a freshwater river at its headwaters in Colleton County. It becomes brackish as it nears the salty waters of the Atlantic. It’s a relatively short and narrow river, but it packs a powerfully beautiful punch. Its water, banks and skies are home to wildlife and flowers in bloom.
Local anglers will tell you its home to all breeds of bream that swim in South Carolina waters. The fish can be found under lily pads fallen trees and near cypress knees. This little Bluegill Bream was caught near Public Landing, then released. It’s a good idea to come prepared with a trolling motor and be on the lookout for shallow depths if heading upstream.
The water turns brackish near Steel Bridge Landing. Fresh and saltwater fish can be found in this area. Redfish and flounder have been known to show up here and further down near St. Helena Sound. Speckled trout frequent the salt waters of the sound as well.
Combahee River Boat Landings Highway 21 Landing – Hwy 17A, Yemassee (1 launch, no dock) Hampton Public Landing – Public Landing Rd, off 17A (2 launch lanes, dock) Colleton Sugar Hill Landing – 40 Sugar Hill Landing Rd, Yemassee (1 launch, no dock) Beaufort Steel Bridge Landing at Harriet Tubman Bridge – Charleston Hwy, Yemassee (2 launch lanes, dock) Beaufort Fields Point Landing – Fields Point Lane, Green Pond (1 launch, no dock) Colleton
The American Revolutionary War Hero that met his end along the Combahee River.
John Laurens was an American soldier and statesman. Born on October 28, 1754, Laurens was the son of Henry Laurens, a plantation owner from Charleston. After studying law in England, Laurens returned to America to join George Washington’s staff during the Revolutionary War in August of 1777. He joined an elite group of aides and secretaries that surrounded the commander in chief. He was very close friends with Alexander Hamilton and the Marquis de Lafayette. Laurens was present in all George Washington’s battles, from Brandywine to Yorktown.
Laurens was quickly known for his thoughts criticizing slavery. As the son of a wealthy slave owner from Charleston, Laurens grew up around slavery and developed very strong feelings against the practice. During the American Revolution, Laurens left Washington’s staff to return to the south and push for legislature to recruit a regiment of black soldiers that would earn their freedom by fighting in the war.
Laurens was a very brave and courageous soldier. He was wounded during the Battle of Germantown (Philadelphia 1777) and again at Coosawhatchie (SC Lowcountry 1779). When General Charles Lee spoke against George Washington’s character in 1778, Laurens wounded him in a duel. Alexander Hamilton acted as his second and ended the duel before a second shot could be fired.
Laurens went on to distinguish himself in Savannah and at the siege of Charleston. Charleston, Laurens was captured by the British during the British victory at Charleston in 1780. He was exchanged and returned to Washington’s staff. Then he was sent to France as a special envoy to appeal to their king for supplies and support. This successful mission led to Cornwallis’s defeat at Yorktown on October 19, 1781. Laurens was designated to aid in the terms of his surrender.
After Yorktown, Laurens travelled back to South Carolina. During a skirmish on the Combahee River, Laurens was killed while leading 50 men and one cannon to reinforce a position in the British rear to cut off their retreat. The British caught wind of Laurens’ movements and ambushed his troops along the route. Laurens was fatally wounded on August 27, 1782. He was only 29 years old.
George Washington was very saddened by the death of one of his most trustworthy aids. In a eulogy to the young soldier, he said, “The Death of Colo Laurens I consider as a very heavy misfortune, not only as it affects the public at large; but particularly to his Family, and all his private Friends and Connections, to whom his amiable and useful Character had rendered him peculiarly dear.” Laurens’ comrade Alexander Hamilton sent a letter to the Marquis de Lafayette: “Poor Laurens; he has fallen a sacrifice to his ardor in a trifling skirmish in South Carolina. You know how truly I loved him and will judge how much I regret him.”
Major General Nathaniel Greene wrote, “Poor Laurens has fallen in a paltry little skirmish. You knew his temper, and I predicted his fate. The love of military glory made him seek it upon occasions unworthy his rank. The state will feel his loss.”
Henry Laurens was buried at Mepkin Abbey, in Moncks Corner, South Carolina.
The Church of the Cross in Old Town Bluffton has been a part of the town’s landscape since 1857 when Bluffton was just a summer resort for the area and inland planters. The handsome cruciform Carpenter’s Gothic Revival building was designed by E. B. White. Mullioned and fan-arched windows are framed by lattice shutters. The rose-colored glass was brought from England. Unfinished cypress timbers cover the structure that rests on a brock foundation.
Image by Carmen Pinckney.
Bluffton was under Federal occupation between 1861 and 1865. While most of the town was burned, the Church of the Cross was spared. The congregation returned after the war, repairs were made, and services resumed in 1870. The church stood unaltered until the roof was replaced in 1892. A deadly hurricane came ashore in 1989 and caused much damage to the building, but repairs were made, and all was well by 1900. Repurposed lumber from repairs was used to make an altar, lectern, and prayer desk. An intimate chapel was created in the narthex that was easy to heat with a pot-bellied stove for the smaller winter congregation.
Images by Carmen Pinckney.
The Church of the Cross in Bluffton was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1975. As the congregation grew, members built the first rectory in 1986. Further growth in 1997 moved the narthex wall back to its original position. The balcony above was renovated and is used for the choir and English pipe organ that was installed in 1999.
Images by Mark Kemper, Pinterest, Steven Hyatt, Inez Bunce, Liwei Linand Inez Bunce.
The arched pine front doors lead into a sanctuary bathed in soft light that reflects from pink plaster walls. Two shuttered lancet windows flank the centrally located door. A tripartite lancet window with smaller trefoil-shaped windows on either side sits above the door. The arched-window window design continues along the sides of the church. Exposed beams of hard yellow pine are used in the sanctuary. The gallery’s carved wooden balustrades repeat the pointed arch seen on the exterior.
Images by Greg Branson, Kitty Hoyt and Richard Pedersen.
The Church of the Cross is located on a high bluff, overlooking the May River. It sits in a garden of live oaks and palmetto trees. The board and batten cypress exterior, open timbered interior ceiling is in keeping with the church’s scenic, rural setting. It is an iconic landmark of Old Town Bluffton, and a “must-see” destination while visiting the Lowcountry. In fact, the entire Calhoun Street and Old Town Bluffton area is full of beautiful sights.
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